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Feb. 9, 2023

A recent study published in the academic journal Resources, Conservation & Recycling and co-authored by a 911������ fashion professor shows that Ontarians generate 500 million kilograms of textile waste a year – about the same weight as more than 45,000 911������ shuttle buses.

The study, “Textile waste in Ontario, Canada: Opportunities for reuse and recycling,” was conducted by School of Fashion Professor Sabine Weber, together with researchers from the University of Waterloo, Goretty Maria Dias, Komal Habib and Olaf Weber.

In Canada, an environmentally friendly way to dispose of textiles is not widely available because textiles aren’t part of an established waste category such as plastics, glass, or paper. As a result, tonnes of materials, some of them in like-new condition, end up in landfills.

As well, conducting textile quality analysis to determine recycling possibilities requires specialized knowledge that is lacking at the municipal, provincial and federal levels of government, the study shows.

“A lot of what is in the garbage is in perfect condition, which is really sad,” Ms. Weber said. “We need to create a recycling infrastructure in Canada that will have people donating materials that are in bad condition too. If we donate only good things, as is happening now, we’ll never build a textile recycling industry because there will be nothing to recycle.”

From 2019 to 2020, Ms. Weber and fellow researchers — including a team of 911������ students —analyzed close to 11,000 items of textile waste weighing nearly 1,800 kilograms collected from 10 Ontario municipalities. They sorted, assessed, and analyzed the textile composition and quality of each item.

“During our waste audits, we were sorting through stinky piles that included everything from leather sneakers to bikinis and leggings with the price tags still on,” she said. “We even found a wedding dress!”

Ms. Weber’s research showed that 65 per cent of textile waste was reusable and another 21 per cent of it could be recycled, such as items made from cotton and other organic textiles. Despite the promising results, textile waste remains a significant portion of every landfill due to expensive sorting costs and a lack of opportunity for recycling.

“Most of our clothing is made from polyester, which is a synthetic fiber and a kind of manufactured plastic that does not break down,” she said. “So it stays in landfills forever.”

On a whim following a waste audit, Ms. Weber held a one-day pop-up clothing sale at Newnham Campus’s The Boutique to display landfill findings. The sale raised more than $1,200. Ms. Weber says that proves economic hardship and current fashion trends are driving strong consumer demand for second-hand clothes.

Having studied textile waste data sets since 2015, Ms. Weber believes there is reason for optimism. Ninety-two per cent of Ontarians have donated an item of clothing in their lifetime, but more needs to be done.��.